This last month has been crazy, both of our big competitions at the works were awesome. The CWIF was a huge success this year with over 200 people attending the spectacular final where Jerome Meyer and Maud Ansade came out top, narrowly beating Dave Barrans and Leah Crane. The week after we held the BUCS student championships with Sheffield Uni continuing there unbeaten record to 3 years in row. Good work Sheffield.
While these big events have been on at the Works, I have been trying to train as much as possible and keep on the program for the Frankenjura. I had a good day at raven tor ticking Bens Roof, Weed killer footless and the Direct start to Weedkiller. Then had a good day on the fingerboard managing to do 3 one armers in a row, this is the first time I have ever done three and five is now the new target!! Roll on the Beastmaker.
Lucinda and I went up to Northumberland for a few days with Lee, Andy and Adam, we went to Shaftoe and Bowden the 1st day and Kyloe in and Hepburn on the second. I despatched a cool 7C at Shaftoe and did some other classics. Lu got very close to Purely Belter but had to give in as her fingers were bleeding. We then headed to Bowden to have a look at the crack a classic 7C+ / 8a I had tried this problem once before but could not relly get off the ground. After a beta from Adam and Andy I despatched it second go.. Get in.
Day to was awsome too after working out all the moves on the sit start to Hitch Hikers I had one good go but I was feeling a bit tied, its a cool problem that felt like perfect training for the Frankenjura. On the way back we stopped off at Hepburn to have a look at a classic highball called Northern Soul, I worked out a slightly diffrent secquence to Adam and then sent it next go a very cool esoteric 7a+ problem that was very similar to some boulders in Font.
After a couple of rest days Lu and Lee were keen to get back on Purely Belter 8a at Shaftoe, we headed up at 7.30 am from Sheffield to get some cooler conditions. We arrived at about 10am and it was in the shade and cold, the friction was really good. After a couple of very close attempts Lucinda stuck the crux hold and dispatched her first 8a. I had been resting most of the morning and taking pictures and after Lu's strong display I got psyched for the flash. I brushed the holds and sqeaked my shoes and then despatched it, carefully trying not to fall off the mantle. Lu and both agreed it was soft for the grade but a very good problem in a superb setting.
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