2010 Round up

2010 was a great year, Lucinda and I put together a year book of all the trips we went on, the book was massive over 80 pages long. The year just flew by, from snowboarding on mam tor to bouldering in Hueco I had a wicked year. I forgot to mention in my last blog some of the other highlights of 2010, I have listed them below in no particular order: Unleashing the wild physique 8a, Nemisis 8a+,K3 8a+, repeat of Powerplant 8a, Flash Lockless monster 7c+, Striker ( boulder Burbage N ) 7c+.
In November I went to Hueco Tanks, Texas for 3 and half weeks. Hueco is place that I have always wanted to go to since i started climbing. It is such a magical place, 1000's of amazing boulders scattered across the desert. We found the whole state park access issue very good, we had made reservations for North Mountain before hand and then booked onto volunteer tours when we were there. I climbed 2 days on 1 day off for the first two weeks and then one day on one day off until the last week when I took a double rest day before our last two days. The weather was unbelievable, between 15 - 20degrees and blue skies every day. I have detailed below the number of harder problems i did including a short video of two classic V11's.

8x V5, 6xV6, 6xV7, 5xV8, 6xV9, 5xV10, 3xV11. All great problems.

http://vimeo.com/17703367

Pushing on...

Pushing On... The last month has been great, I have not got loads to show for it but I have been very busy training and getting psyched for my 8c goal!! The weather crapped out a bit over the last 3 weeks but that has meant I went back to Malham slightly sooner than expected, I have despatched the Thumb at Kilnsey before north buttress got wet and I was getting close to Unjustifield before it got wet again! Oh well im off to spain for a month to clip some bolts and catch some sun. I have posted a photo taken by Adam Long of me on Minos at cheedale. 

 

Sorry for the delay in blogging but there has been some technical difficulties with back end of the site.

I have been very busy over last few months and will try and take you through some of the high lights:

Over the festive period the weather in Sheffield was crazy, there was lots of snow for well over a month and getting out cragging was proving to be very difficult. Lucinda and I opted for snow sports, training and working hard at the Climbing Works. We had a great week snowboarding in the peak, especially a few very special days boarding down the back of Mam Tor, check out the following short video i made of our fun week in the peak, http://vimeo.com/8673444

Next up was a two week trip to font, we had some pretty bad weather but remained psyched and i managed 3 quality 7c's and Haute Tension 7c+ in 5 goes. Even though we only climbed about 5 or six days Lucinda and I had a quality break and watched many DVD's.

For the last month i have been trying to get out as much as i can weather permitting, the 1st good spell we had i was very lucky to be able to take advantage of the snow at stanage I managed a flash of Weather report and a quick ascent of Cementry waites, both superb routes and not too scary with the current snow/ball landings. That day I also managed a quick ascent of the classic sit start to help the young without the block F8a.

Next up i very happy with crushing a nice little problem at Burbage called striker F7c+ that i had got quite close to a week before the snow came. The weather had now become pretty stable and Lucinda crushed The Eastwood traverse F7c.

Cementary waites

Help young sit

I felt good and wanted to despatch some old nemesis from when i lived in leeds, so we headed to Caley for what turned out to be a great day, i did Ben's groove SS F7c+, Blockbuster 7b+, Secret seventh 7b+ check out video of Ben's groove, http://vimeo.com/9915863

Then last weekend i went up to the plantation to meet some family and the boulders were very busy except the business boulder, Ben's Extension had been another nemesis over the years and i came close to it about 4 years ago. I more or less warmed up on Jerrys trav and felt very good. I had one good go and fell off the crux of Jerry's due to cold fingers, 5 mins later i was topping out feeling very psyched.

Talk soon cheers Sam

Autumn 2010

Spain Well what can I say; Lucinda and I had a great trip to Spain. We took the long ferry from Portsmouth to Bilboa which took about 36 hours, it was certainly an experience!
We cruised down through Catalunya checking out Terradettes, Santa Linya, Rodella and Beilsa. All of these crags are awesome especially Beilsa which was my favorite. It was a bit more adventurous with 35 metre run out tufa routes! And there was no one there.
We then headed down to Albaracin which was about a 5 hour drive to meet up with some friends. We had two quality days bouldering and chilled out in there wooden shack, eating and drinking… bring it on.
Four weeks had flashed by and we decided to have the last week flexing on a beach and getting psyched for the cold wet November ahead. We push on down south to my Mum and Dads small holiday farmhouse nr Catagena. The sea was warm and the beer cold.  We did have a couple of days climbing and checking out some new areas.

All in all it was a an awesome trip and smashed in 5 8a's one 35meter 8a+ and two font 7c's.

mid 2010

Sport Climbing I have had a busy last couple of months sport climbing. I came back from the frankenjura due to bad weather and terrible mosquitos. Since I got back I have been psyched for Yorkshire limestone, Lu and I have had some regular visits to Malham before it got too hot!! Ticking the following classics, Herbie, Raindogs and Austrian Oak!
I have also ticked Minos (cheedale) and Biological need (Kilnsey)  both second go.
Its all a bit hot out there but when it cools down hopefully things will feel slightly easier..

cheers Sam
Lucinda protecting against the Mosqitos in the Frankenjura!!!!!

early 2010

Last months update..
This last month has been crazy, both of our big competitions at the works were awesome. The CWIF was a huge success this year with over 200 people attending the spectacular final where Jerome Meyer and Maud Ansade came out top, narrowly beating Dave Barrans and Leah Crane. The week after we held the BUCS student championships with Sheffield Uni continuing there unbeaten record to 3 years in row. Good work Sheffield.
While these big events have been on at the Works, I have been trying to train as much as possible and keep on the program for the Frankenjura. I had a good day at raven tor ticking Bens Roof, Weed killer footless and the Direct start to Weedkiller. Then had a good day on the fingerboard managing to do 3 one armers in a row, this is the first time I have ever done three and five is now the new target!! Roll on the Beastmaker.
Lucinda and I went up to Northumberland for a few days with Lee, Andy and Adam, we went to Shaftoe and Bowden the 1st day and Kyloe in and Hepburn on the second. I despatched a cool 7C at Shaftoe and did some other classics. Lu got very close to Purely Belter but had to give in as her fingers were bleeding. We then headed to Bowden to have a look at the crack a classic 7C+ / 8a I had tried this problem once before but could not relly get off the ground. After a beta from Adam and Andy I despatched it second go.. Get in.
Day to was awsome too after working out all the moves on the sit start to Hitch Hikers I had one good go but I was feeling a bit tied, its a cool problem that felt like perfect training for the Frankenjura. On the way back we stopped off at Hepburn to have a look at a classic highball called Northern Soul, I worked out a slightly diffrent secquence to Adam and then sent it next go a very cool esoteric 7a+ problem that was very similar to some boulders in Font.
After a couple of rest days Lu and Lee were keen to get back on Purely Belter 8a at Shaftoe, we headed up at 7.30 am from Sheffield to get some cooler conditions. We arrived at about 10am and it was in the shade and cold, the friction was really good. After a couple of very close attempts Lucinda stuck the crux hold and dispatched her first 8a. I had been resting most of the morning and taking pictures and after Lu's strong display I got psyched for the flash. I brushed the holds and sqeaked my shoes and then despatched it, carefully trying not to fall off the mantle. Lu and both agreed it was soft for the grade but a very good problem in a superb setting.

Talk soon

Feb 09

Strength gains... Well the last 3 months have been amazing, I feel like have made some massive gains in all aspects of my climbing. I have been much more focusted over the last few months and have had a bit more flexability at the Climbing Works, freeing up time to get out climbing and training. The weather before xmas was very stable and there was plenty of friends around to get out. In the months of December and January I managed to climb E8, Font 8a and onsight french route 8a something I have allways wanted to achieve and feel that I am just a the start of a new level of psyche.
We have a couple of big comps over the next few weeks at the The Works and then operation Frankenjura will commense. Lucinda and I are going on roard trip there at the end of April so as you can imagine i'm foaming at the mouth...
The new beastmaker 'motherboard' at the works is awesome I can only climb on it once a week at the moment as its so fierce and steep. It feels like the next level in training and I just need recover quicker to get the most out of the board.
peace out

Jan 09

Fontainebleau Happy new year.. I have just got back from an amazing trip to Fontainebleau in sub zero conditions, the temperature never went above -3 for the entire week!!
Lu, myself and Simon traveled to Font on the 2nd January to meet some other friends in a nice Gite near Buthiers. For the first two days we had perfect conditions followed by a full day of snow and a welcome rest day.

Lucinda high ball 7b+

The following day, due to the ridiculously cold temperatures, it was possible to clear off some of the snow and find dry rock underneath. I then had four days tearing it up in the artic conditions, despatching a couple of 8a's and loads of classics.

Dec 08

Gritstone update... Merry Xmas everone.. Hope you have eaten your own body weight in food and drank obscene amounts...
The weather has been awesome over the last 2 months it feels like one of the best starts to a grit season ever.. It started when team america arrived there seamed to be huge amounts of psyche around and people were doing routes left right and centre. I have added some photo's of me headpointing Living in oxford.
When team america left, my Australian friend ( The Rubber Chicken ) arrived and we have spent the last 3 weeks getting out as much as we can. I have been bouldering well, repeating some 7c+'s I have done before. Last week Rubber Chicken and I both despatched End of the Affair, what a great route with some very cool moves. I have also been pretty close to renagade master at Froggat, its got some fiece moves on crimps and I feel I need to be a little stronger through the shoulders to send it next go. I better go down to the Works and do some lock off's till I black out!! 
After a few days working im off fora a week in Font, fingers crossed the weather will stay amazing so we can tear it up and check out some new areas. Lu, me and the RC are traveling down on fri to meet up with some other friends, I carn't weight...

Happy new year.........

Nov 08

Honeymoon.. Well its been long time since I last blogged but I have lots to tell you.  
On Sat 30th August Lucinda and I got married in the Peak District. The weather was amazing and we were very lucky that it didnt rain!! Lu and I had such a good day with all our friends and family in attendance on our special day. The following day we headed off Australia for our 5 week honeymoon for some sun and hard moves...
We arrived in Melbourne and spent 2 nights in a really nice swarve hotel down in ST Kilda, we had room service etc and pretty much didnt leave the hotel.
We then flew up to Sydney for a week with our friend Nick, we climbed in the Blue Mountains for a few days and enjoyed some amazing food and lots of Coopers beer.
Then we flew back to Melbourne and arrived to a fully loaded up silver Honda civic, ready for us to take to the Grampians. We had stoves, chairs, pads and extra climbing gear. We're in...
Our friend the Rubber Chicken ( pretty much our Oz bro ) fully styled us, we arrived at the Gramps with some friends of the RC and followed them to a small campground in the middle of the bush called Mosquito Creek. We Climbed at Muline for a week and I nearly flashed this amazing 8a called eye of the tiger. I despatched it next go and thought it was one of the best sport routes I had ever done!!! ( Photo's sould be up soon ).
We then headed up towards Taipan wall to stay at Stapelton campground, this place is so cool, lots of wallabys and stumpy blue tong lizards around. We climbed on Taipan and bouldered around the area with my highlight being a 8a+ despatch 3rd go.
Lu and I then headed back to Melbourne to pick up the Rubber chicken to spend the remaining time of our trip bouldering at his new area called the Tower. It was awesome. Fresh untouched sandstone boulders with all kinds of problems. From gritstyle highball slabs to steep Hueco style roofs, we all had a great time, lots of banter and a few nights getting lashed talking rubbish.
Thanks to everone in Oz for an amazing time and making us feel so welcome..
Been back on the grit since I got back and Headpointed a coulpe of Grit E7's to get my head back in gear...
Will post some photo's as soon as I get them..
Talk soon...

August 08

Round up of the last 2 months... Well I have been very busy climbing, working going on holiday and preparing for my wedding so i have loads to share with you. 

I will start with the end of june when Lucinda and I went to amazing one day techno festival in Amsterdam called Awakenings. It started at 10am and went on until midnight featuring 3 large indoor arenas and 2 massive outdoor stages. The atmosphere was awesome very friendly and chilled out and good food tents and a superb mojito tent. We danced all day to some awesome techno and had a great time we will definatly be going again next year.

Next main news was that Lucy and Percy had a wonderful little daughter called Annie what a proud looking Dad he his!


Then before I got fully into organising things for Lu and I's wedding I had my stag do in Magic wood. 30 of my friends gathered in the magical forest for 4 days of fun. There was plenty of Climbing, plenty of banter, and a ridiculos amounts of fun. Harry my best man did a sterling job of organising the whole weekend a had the mother of all surprises for me on the sunday. He had booked me to do the worlds largest bungee jump about 220 meters of a massive dam nr Belinzona 5-6 seconds of ultimate euphoria... Get in..
I have also been training loads at the wall getting ready for Lu and I honeymoon we 5 weeks in Australia.  I have been doing circuits and some campusing to top up my power endurance. In the middle of training I made a quick ascent of Dangerous brothers ( 3rd go ) and despathed Cote de Sezwan at magic wood, all in all its been a great couple of months and now im just really looking forward to the wedding and honeymoon.