Friday, 4 November 2011

New Videos

I have finally got round to finishing my short video of this summers trip to Rocklands in South Africa. I was waiting to see what problems were featured in the new film 'Tomorrow I will be gone' by Outcrop films.
There are a few problems duplicated in my film but i hope you enjoy it and it gets you  psyched...Rocklands Quest 2011

Wednesday, 14 September 2011

Rocklands 2011

For the last 6 weeks I have been in South Africa at the  magnificent Bouldering area called Rocklands. the Boulders are situated about 3 hours from Cape Town nr a small town called Clanwilliam. When you first drive up the pass towards the boulders the view is incredible, boulders litter the mountain sides for as far as the eye can see. Wonderland!
We were staying with a big team of Brits from around the UK in a large farmhouse belonging to the Travelers Rest. The accomodation was fairly basic but had loads of comfey sofa's and had a real homely feel to it. This was short lived after 15 people all living togeather attracted all kinds of wildlife from Tics to mice... now I felt like we were in Africa!
The weather in July was pretty hot but the prevailing psyche of loads of amazing looking problems won over and I felt like I was climbing well and enjoying climbing some great problems. I started off doing a few classic 7c's and a couple of 7c+'s and felt pretty fit from this springs sport climbing scene.
I had set myself a little challenge before I went away and this was that I was only allowed to drink beer if I had climbed and 8a or above.. This proved to be a good motivator and I was soon dispatching 8a's left right and centre. After climbing a few classic 8a's I turned my focus to one of the best looking boulder problems I have ever seen called Black Shadow. It was so hot that I went out one night to have a go with head torch's, I pulled on a couple of times but it was still way too hot. My next session was better and I should of done it but I fell off the last move 3 times. I had a double rest day went back for revenge, I changed my sequence at the end and did it first go from the start topping out in a sea of glory!
The weather over the next few weeks improved because we had a weekly day of rain that cooled the air down a bit. With these improved conditions I went up to try a amazing looking roof called The Vice (flashed by Ondra). This was the first time I have a tried an 8b and my first session went well. I managed to do all the moves and link it in 2 sections, spirits were high and I had another double rest day and went back up for another look. Something was different I felt rubbish and the conditions didn't feel very good, I couldn't do the links I did on the first session and I decided to leave it for a while and go and do some other slightly easier problem's.
I had a great week climbing some classic high problems like Cedar spine, Splash of Red and flashing Tomorrow I will be gone and I felt like it was time to have another go at The Vice.
VOID.... I walked up feeling positive and arrived at the problem to a sea of people! no joke there must have been 10-12 people trying it and another 15 watching! not good. I tried to warm up and try the moves but it was ridiculous. One person was trying the end as someone else was going from the start!
I decided then that I didn't have enough time to do it and I was more psyched to get some more classics done instead and leave the Vice for another trip. I then walked over to another sector and dispatched a classic problem called Nutsa 4th go.
All in all I had a great trip and met some really sound people and would defiantly go back in a few years time.
I have listed below some of classic problems I did:

Black Shadow

Splash of Red






































Lu on Caroline 7c+















Black Shadow 8a+, The Ampetheate 8a+, Nutsa 8a, Witness the Sickness 8a, Pendragon 8a, Barracuda 8a, No late Benders 8a, Out of balance 8a, Spash of Red 7c+, Ghost in Darkness 7C+, Caroline 7c+,  Cedar spine SS 7c, Une rime stupide 7c+, Winne 7c, Tomorrow I will be gone 7c, Tea Garden Roof  7c, Pinotage 7b+.

Saturday, 30 April 2011

Happy days...

The end of the crux...























Well its been an awesome process full of ups and downs but on Tuesday the 26th April I finally dispatched Unjustified 8c at Malham cove. I have been trying it on and off for about 2 years spending over 25 days working it, by far the longest amount of time I have spent on a route. Last year i felt like I was close but in  hynsite I probably wasn't quite fit enough and had put a bit too much pressure on myself to do it. This year felt different I had been training better and felt fitter and stronger than last year. After 1 day reacquainting myself with the moves I decided to have a red point, I climbed past my high point from last year and felt nervous because now I new I could do it! My second red point also went very well getting one move higher again but fell off due to cold fingers. The next 2 weeks were a bit frustrating, I was struggling with conditions and nerves and just felt like it was becoming a bit of a battle, we then had a week of ridiculously warm weather and thought I had blown my chances. over the Easter weekend I relaxed, drank some beers ate lots of cake, pizza and fudge and totally took my mind off the route. Lucinda and I travelled to Malham on the Tuesday to find near perfect conditions, overcast and about 10 degrees. I warmed up and put the clips in the route and did the crux section once to power up. I lowered down had about half an hour rest and then got psyched for a redpoint. I waited at the bottom for ages, just psyching up and chalking up, I took my vest off for a bit of 'shirts off' psyche and set off on my 1st red point of the day. I climbed quick and precise through the crux with only a minor foot slip, I arrived at the move I normally fall and was able to get a little shake out where I normally fall off! It felt good! keep calm I  said to myself, breathe, relax your on a top rope! I could feel the silence around the cove everyone who was at the crag willing me not to fall. I then climbed easily to the top and didn't feel pumped after clipping the belay! GET IN!! I couldn't quite believe I had done it. Thanks to Lucinda for all her support belaying, its been a great month as she alos did her project 2 weeks ago, making the 1st female ascent of Overnight Sensation 8a+.

Clipping the belay...

Wednesday, 13 April 2011

last 3 months round up....

The last 3 months have been awesome, I have been questing around all over the place having loads of fun. First up way a winter sports trip to Saint Gervais ne Chamonix, some friends of mine had a friend who owned a suarve chalet and invited us along for a week. The chalet was great with loads of room for 8 people and a sauna down stairs. It had amazing views of mont blonc and it was walking distance to a small chair lift that accessed the St Gervais resort.
The weather was perfect for the whole week, in terms of blue skies and no cloud but this also meant there was no fresh snow, oh well you carnt have it all!
We had 3 days snowboarding, 2 days skiing and 1 day ski touring, check out some photo's below.







Next up was a week in Slovenia at the famous crag of Misja Pec with Lu,Gus and Neil. Slovenia is a lovely country, very chilled out with nice people and superb climbing. We had 6 days climbing at Misja Pec, I thought the main part of the crag was like Terradettes with either side of the crag being similar to some of the caves you get in Roddella.
We stayed in a small but very nice apartment owned by the mountaineering legend Silvo Caro, we were the first to stay here and I would fully recomed it if anyone is keen to go out.
I climbed loads of 7b+'s a 7c, 7c+ and 2 8a's, this was pretty much the first time on rock since Hueco and it felt like a great start to the season.

 No Hands rest!!
 Gus and I then Headed straight from Stanstead airpot to Fontainbleau. It was a friends stag do and there was 13 climbers from all over the country desending on the forest. We had a big Gite that slept us all and had loads of room for party games drinking etc. The weater was also perfect, about 10 degrees and patchy cloud! Get in Gus and I climbed 4 days on before heading back to Sheff. I had a really good trip ticking some classics and only climbing 2 problems i had done before, the rest were all new.
I have listed below some of the best problems i did.
L'angle parfait 7b
Appartenance 7c
Contol A 7c
Dosage 7c
Master edge 7c
Irreversible 7c
Alta 7b+
mur de lementations 7b+
Supplement de armes 7c+
La balaine 7a
Paddy 7c+/8a
L' Oef  7b
Metromotrice ( the best 7b+ in the forest!?)
I will try and get some photos up asap.. cheers S

This years CWIF was also a massive success with over 300 competitors and a full capacity crowd. I had been busy organising other areas of the comp and thus had nothing to do with the route setting and after a Dutch team member pulled out due to injury I was drafted in to the dutch team. I really enjoyed myself and ended up finishing in  11th place. check out the following high light film of CWIF 2011
http://vimeo.com/22282373?ab
  Check out another short film advertising the CWIF after party.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ml7yhwxsXPk&NR=1

Monday, 3 January 2011

2010 Round up

2010 was a great year, Lucinda and I put together a year book of all the trips we went on, the book was massive over 80 pages long. The year just flew by, from snowboarding on mam tor to bouldering in Hueco I had a wicked year. I forgot to mention in my last blog some of the other highlights of 2010, I have listed them below in no particular order: Unleashing the wild physique 8a, Nemisis 8a+,K3 8a+, repeat of Powerplant 8a, Flash Lockless monster 7c+, Striker ( boulder Burbage N ) 7c+.
In November I went to Hueco Tanks, Texas for 3 and half weeks. Hueco is place that I have always wanted to go to since i started climbing. It is such a magical place, 1000's of amazing boulders scattered across the desert. We found the whole state park access issue very good, we had made reservations for North Mountain before hand and then booked onto volunteer tours when we were there. I climbed 2 days on 1 day off for the first two weeks and then one day on one day off until the last week when I took a double rest day before our last two days. The weather was unbelievable, between 15 - 20degrees and blue skies every day. I have detailed below the number of harder problems i did including a short video of two classic V11's.

8x V5, 6xV6, 6xV7, 5xV8, 6xV9, 5xV10, 3xV11. All great problems.

http://vimeo.com/17703367

Pushing on...

Pushing On... The last month has been great, I have not got loads to show for it but I have been very busy training and getting psyched for my 8c goal!! The weather crapped out a bit over the last 3 weeks but that has meant I went back to Malham slightly sooner than expected, I have despatched the Thumb at Kilnsey before north buttress got wet and I was getting close to Unjustifield before it got wet again! Oh well im off to spain for a month to clip some bolts and catch some sun. I have posted a photo taken by Adam Long of me on Minos at cheedale. 

 









































Sorry for the delay in blogging but there has been some technical difficulties with back end of the site.
I have been very busy over last few months and will try and take you through some of the high lights:
Over the festive period the weather in Sheffield was crazy, there was lots of snow for well over a month and getting out cragging was proving to be very difficult. Lucinda and I opted for snow sports, training and working hard at the Climbing Works. We had a great week snowboarding in the peak, especially a few very special days boarding down the back of Mam Tor, check out the following short video i made of our fun week in the peak, http://vimeo.com/8673444

Next up was a two week trip to font, we had some pretty bad weather but remained psyched and i managed 3 quality 7c's and Haute Tension 7c+ in 5 goes. Even though we only climbed about 5 or six days Lucinda and I had a quality break and watched many DVD's.
For the last month i have been trying to get out as much as i can weather permitting, the 1st good spell we had i was very lucky to be able to take advantage of the snow at stanage I managed a flash of Weather report and a quick ascent of Cementry waites, both superb routes and not too scary with the current snow/ball landings. That day I also managed a quick ascent of the classic sit start to help the young without the block F8a.


Next up i very happy with crushing a nice little problem at Burbage called striker F7c+ that i had got quite close to a week before the snow came. The weather had now become pretty stable and Lucinda crushed The Eastwood traverse F7c.
Cementary waites


Help young sit


I felt good and wanted to despatch some old nemesis from when i lived in leeds, so we headed to Caley for what turned out to be a great day, i did Ben's groove SS F7c+, Blockbuster 7b+, Secret seventh 7b+ check out video of Ben's groove, http://vimeo.com/9915863

Then last weekend i went up to the plantation to meet some family and the boulders were very busy except the business boulder, Ben's Extension had been another nemesis over the years and i came close to it about 4 years ago. I more or less warmed up on Jerrys trav and felt very good. I had one good go and fell off the crux of Jerry's due to cold fingers, 5 mins later i was topping out feeling very psyched.
Talk soon cheers Sam


Autumn 2010

Spain Well what can I say; Lucinda and I had a great trip to Spain. We took the long ferry from Portsmouth to Bilboa which took about 36 hours, it was certainly an experience!
We cruised down through Catalunya checking out Terradettes, Santa Linya, Rodella and Beilsa. All of these crags are awesome especially Beilsa which was my favorite. It was a bit more adventurous with 35 metre run out tufa routes! And there was no one there.
We then headed down to Albaracin which was about a 5 hour drive to meet up with some friends. We had two quality days bouldering and chilled out in there wooden shack, eating and drinking… bring it on.
Four weeks had flashed by and we decided to have the last week flexing on a beach and getting psyched for the cold wet November ahead. We push on down south to my Mum and Dads small holiday farmhouse nr Catagena. The sea was warm and the beer cold.  We did have a couple of days climbing and checking out some new areas.





All in all it was a an awesome trip and smashed in 5 8a's one 35meter 8a+ and two font 7c's.

mid 2010

Sport Climbing I have had a busy last couple of months sport climbing. I came back from the frankenjura due to bad weather and terrible mosquitos. Since I got back I have been psyched for Yorkshire limestone, Lu and I have had some regular visits to Malham before it got too hot!! Ticking the following classics, Herbie, Raindogs and Austrian Oak!
I have also ticked Minos (cheedale) and Biological need (Kilnsey)  both second go.
Its all a bit hot out there but when it cools down hopefully things will feel slightly easier..

cheers Sam
Lucinda protecting against the Mosqitos in the Frankenjura!!!!!


early 2010

Last months update..
This last month has been crazy, both of our big competitions at the works were awesome. The CWIF was a huge success this year with over 200 people attending the spectacular final where Jerome Meyer and Maud Ansade came out top, narrowly beating Dave Barrans and Leah Crane. The week after we held the BUCS student championships with Sheffield Uni continuing there unbeaten record to 3 years in row. Good work Sheffield.
While these big events have been on at the Works, I have been trying to train as much as possible and keep on the program for the Frankenjura. I had a good day at raven tor ticking Bens Roof, Weed killer footless and the Direct start to Weedkiller. Then had a good day on the fingerboard managing to do 3 one armers in a row, this is the first time I have ever done three and five is now the new target!! Roll on the Beastmaker.
Lucinda and I went up to Northumberland for a few days with Lee, Andy and Adam, we went to Shaftoe and Bowden the 1st day and Kyloe in and Hepburn on the second. I despatched a cool 7C at Shaftoe and did some other classics. Lu got very close to Purely Belter but had to give in as her fingers were bleeding. We then headed to Bowden to have a look at the crack a classic 7C+ / 8a I had tried this problem once before but could not relly get off the ground. After a beta from Adam and Andy I despatched it second go.. Get in.
Day to was awsome too after working out all the moves on the sit start to Hitch Hikers I had one good go but I was feeling a bit tied, its a cool problem that felt like perfect training for the Frankenjura. On the way back we stopped off at Hepburn to have a look at a classic highball called Northern Soul, I worked out a slightly diffrent secquence to Adam and then sent it next go a very cool esoteric 7a+ problem that was very similar to some boulders in Font.
After a couple of rest days Lu and Lee were keen to get back on Purely Belter 8a at Shaftoe, we headed up at 7.30 am from Sheffield to get some cooler conditions. We arrived at about 10am and it was in the shade and cold, the friction was really good. After a couple of very close attempts Lucinda stuck the crux hold and dispatched her first 8a. I had been resting most of the morning and taking pictures and after Lu's strong display I got psyched for the flash. I brushed the holds and sqeaked my shoes and then despatched it, carefully trying not to fall off the mantle. Lu and both agreed it was soft for the grade but a very good problem in a superb setting.



Talk soon




Feb 09

Strength gains... Well the last 3 months have been amazing, I feel like have made some massive gains in all aspects of my climbing. I have been much more focusted over the last few months and have had a bit more flexability at the Climbing Works, freeing up time to get out climbing and training. The weather before xmas was very stable and there was plenty of friends around to get out. In the months of December and January I managed to climb E8, Font 8a and onsight french route 8a something I have allways wanted to achieve and feel that I am just a the start of a new level of psyche.
We have a couple of big comps over the next few weeks at the The Works and then operation Frankenjura will commense. Lucinda and I are going on roard trip there at the end of April so as you can imagine i'm foaming at the mouth...
The new beastmaker 'motherboard' at the works is awesome I can only climb on it once a week at the moment as its so fierce and steep. It feels like the next level in training and I just need recover quicker to get the most out of the board.
peace out

Jan 09

Fontainebleau Happy new year.. I have just got back from an amazing trip to Fontainebleau in sub zero conditions, the temperature never went above -3 for the entire week!!
Lu, myself and Simon traveled to Font on the 2nd January to meet some other friends in a nice Gite near Buthiers. For the first two days we had perfect conditions followed by a full day of snow and a welcome rest day.


Lucinda high ball 7b+





The following day, due to the ridiculously cold temperatures, it was possible to clear off some of the snow and find dry rock underneath. I then had four days tearing it up in the artic conditions, despatching a couple of 8a's and loads of classics.

Dec 08

Gritstone update... Merry Xmas everone.. Hope you have eaten your own body weight in food and drank obscene amounts...
The weather has been awesome over the last 2 months it feels like one of the best starts to a grit season ever.. It started when team america arrived there seamed to be huge amounts of psyche around and people were doing routes left right and centre. I have added some photo's of me headpointing Living in oxford.
When team america left, my Australian friend ( The Rubber Chicken ) arrived and we have spent the last 3 weeks getting out as much as we can. I have been bouldering well, repeating some 7c+'s I have done before. Last week Rubber Chicken and I both despatched End of the Affair, what a great route with some very cool moves. I have also been pretty close to renagade master at Froggat, its got some fiece moves on crimps and I feel I need to be a little stronger through the shoulders to send it next go. I better go down to the Works and do some lock off's till I black out!! 
After a few days working im off fora a week in Font, fingers crossed the weather will stay amazing so we can tear it up and check out some new areas. Lu, me and the RC are traveling down on fri to meet up with some other friends, I carn't weight...

Happy new year.........