Happy days...

The end of the crux...

Well its been an awesome process full of ups and downs but on Tuesday the 26th April I finally dispatched Unjustified 8c at Malham cove. I have been trying it on and off for about 2 years spending over 25 days working it, by far the longest amount of time I have spent on a route. Last year i felt like I was close but in  hynsite I probably wasn't quite fit enough and had put a bit too much pressure on myself to do it. This year felt different I had been training better and felt fitter and stronger than last year. After 1 day reacquainting myself with the moves I decided to have a red point, I climbed past my high point from last year and felt nervous because now I new I could do it! My second red point also went very well getting one move higher again but fell off due to cold fingers. The next 2 weeks were a bit frustrating, I was struggling with conditions and nerves and just felt like it was becoming a bit of a battle, we then had a week of ridiculously warm weather and thought I had blown my chances. over the Easter weekend I relaxed, drank some beers ate lots of cake, pizza and fudge and totally took my mind off the route. Lucinda and I travelled to Malham on the Tuesday to find near perfect conditions, overcast and about 10 degrees. I warmed up and put the clips in the route and did the crux section once to power up. I lowered down had about half an hour rest and then got psyched for a redpoint. I waited at the bottom for ages, just psyching up and chalking up, I took my vest off for a bit of 'shirts off' psyche and set off on my 1st red point of the day. I climbed quick and precise through the crux with only a minor foot slip, I arrived at the move I normally fall and was able to get a little shake out where I normally fall off! It felt good! keep calm I  said to myself, breathe, relax your on a top rope! I could feel the silence around the cove everyone who was at the crag willing me not to fall. I then climbed easily to the top and didn't feel pumped after clipping the belay! GET IN!! I couldn't quite believe I had done it. Thanks to Lucinda for all her support belaying, its been a great month as she alos did her project 2 weeks ago, making the 1st female ascent of Overnight Sensation 8a+.

Clipping the belay...