Happy days...

The end of the crux...

Well its been an awesome process full of ups and downs but on Tuesday the 26th April I finally dispatched Unjustified 8c at Malham cove. I have been trying it on and off for about 2 years spending over 25 days working it, by far the longest amount of time I have spent on a route. Last year i felt like I was close but in  hynsite I probably wasn't quite fit enough and had put a bit too much pressure on myself to do it. This year felt different I had been training better and felt fitter and stronger than last year. After 1 day reacquainting myself with the moves I decided to have a red point, I climbed past my high point from last year and felt nervous because now I new I could do it! My second red point also went very well getting one move higher again but fell off due to cold fingers. The next 2 weeks were a bit frustrating, I was struggling with conditions and nerves and just felt like it was becoming a bit of a battle, we then had a week of ridiculously warm weather and thought I had blown my chances. over the Easter weekend I relaxed, drank some beers ate lots of cake, pizza and fudge and totally took my mind off the route. Lucinda and I travelled to Malham on the Tuesday to find near perfect conditions, overcast and about 10 degrees. I warmed up and put the clips in the route and did the crux section once to power up. I lowered down had about half an hour rest and then got psyched for a redpoint. I waited at the bottom for ages, just psyching up and chalking up, I took my vest off for a bit of 'shirts off' psyche and set off on my 1st red point of the day. I climbed quick and precise through the crux with only a minor foot slip, I arrived at the move I normally fall and was able to get a little shake out where I normally fall off! It felt good! keep calm I  said to myself, breathe, relax your on a top rope! I could feel the silence around the cove everyone who was at the crag willing me not to fall. I then climbed easily to the top and didn't feel pumped after clipping the belay! GET IN!! I couldn't quite believe I had done it. Thanks to Lucinda for all her support belaying, its been a great month as she alos did her project 2 weeks ago, making the 1st female ascent of Overnight Sensation 8a+.

Clipping the belay...

last 3 months round up....

The last 3 months have been awesome, I have been questing around all over the place having loads of fun. First up way a winter sports trip to Saint Gervais ne Chamonix, some friends of mine had a friend who owned a suarve chalet and invited us along for a week. The chalet was great with loads of room for 8 people and a sauna down stairs. It had amazing views of mont blonc and it was walking distance to a small chair lift that accessed the St Gervais resort.
The weather was perfect for the whole week, in terms of blue skies and no cloud but this also meant there was no fresh snow, oh well you carnt have it all!
We had 3 days snowboarding, 2 days skiing and 1 day ski touring, check out some photo's below.

Next up was a week in Slovenia at the famous crag of Misja Pec with Lu,Gus and Neil. Slovenia is a lovely country, very chilled out with nice people and superb climbing. We had 6 days climbing at Misja Pec, I thought the main part of the crag was like Terradettes with either side of the crag being similar to some of the caves you get in Roddella.
We stayed in a small but very nice apartment owned by the mountaineering legend Silvo Caro, we were the first to stay here and I would fully recomed it if anyone is keen to go out.
I climbed loads of 7b+'s a 7c, 7c+ and 2 8a's, this was pretty much the first time on rock since Hueco and it felt like a great start to the season.

 No Hands rest!!

 Gus and I then Headed straight from Stanstead airpot to Fontainbleau. It was a friends stag do and there was 13 climbers from all over the country desending on the forest. We had a big Gite that slept us all and had loads of room for party games drinking etc. The weater was also perfect, about 10 degrees and patchy cloud! Get in Gus and I climbed 4 days on before heading back to Sheff. I had a really good trip ticking some classics and only climbing 2 problems i had done before, the rest were all new.
I have listed below some of the best problems i did.
L'angle parfait 7b
Appartenance 7c
Contol A 7c
Dosage 7c
Master edge 7c
Irreversible 7c
Alta 7b+
mur de lementations 7b+
Supplement de armes 7c+
La balaine 7a
Paddy 7c+/8a
L' Oef  7b
Metromotrice ( the best 7b+ in the forest!?)
I will try and get some photos up asap.. cheers S

This years CWIF was also a massive success with over 300 competitors and a full capacity crowd. I had been busy organising other areas of the comp and thus had nothing to do with the route setting and after a Dutch team member pulled out due to injury I was drafted in to the dutch team. I really enjoyed myself and ended up finishing in  11th place. check out the following high light film of CWIF 2011
http://vimeo.com/22282373?ab

  Check out another short film advertising the CWIF after party.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ml7yhwxsXPk&NR=1